In March, I had the opportunity to attend Europain 2008 in Paris. In addition to walking the show floor and cheering on Team USA at the Coupe du Monde de Boulangerie, I had the privilege to participate in the Bread Bakers Guild of America Paris bakery tours. One tour gave guild members a unique look behind the counter at the operations of three Paris bakeries, or as the French would say, “boulangeries,” – Laurent Duchene, Au Duc de la Chappelle and Julien.
To view and taste the various baked goods produced by these bakers was an indescribable treat. Beyond their obvious skills as artisan bread makers, these bakers are intentional about developing and maintaining successful businesses. They truly understand the importance of producing and marketing high quality, premium products; meeting customer’s needs by offering unique products and services; and developing and communicating a strong bakery brand image.
Offering High Quality, Premium Products
As a first-time traveler to the City of Lights, I was initiated to the sight of the Parisian stepping through the doorway of the bakery with the famed baguette in one hand while the other deftly tore away a piece to enjoy as he made his way down the avenue. This visual was repeated time and time again – be it a group of construction workers, a grandmother with her grandchild in tow, or a fashionably dressed business man. It was apparent that the baguette is woven into the fabric of the French culture.
As we visited with the bakers, discussion focused on the two different types of baguettes typically offered – classic and traditional. At each bakery the classic, or “ordinaire,” baguette was priced lower than the traditional and experienced higher sales volume. This baguette was made with a shorter, warmer fermentation process and was machine molded. The loaf was longer, the crumb whiter and the loaf volume greater than the traditional baguette. The bakers explained that this style of baguette emerged after World War II and that it is the accepted baguette of this generation. (For further reading on the history of the baguette, I suggest the book, “Good Bread Is Back” by Steven Laurence Kaplan.)
The traditional baguette is an artisan bread that stems from the rich heritage of the French baker. The historical baking process of the traditional baguette utilized less developed doughs. Manual kneading and longer fermentation times were required to develop adequate gluten strength in the dough. The side benefit to the longer fermentation was the extended production of alcohol and acidity that intensified the aroma and flavor of the bread. Modernization of the mixing process yielded stronger dough that required less first fermentation, thus reducing the flavor character of the bread. Today, the baker uses a less intensive mix combined with a longer, cooler fermentation process to develop a more complex flavor profile in the finished bread.
It was apparent that each baker takes great pride in their product, hand-forming each loaf. Producing a slightly pointed tip, the ends of the hand-formed loaf receive a deeper browning in the oven, distinguishing it from the classic baguette with its rounded ends. The baguettes are displayed, standing side-by-side in whicker baskets at the front of the shop, radiating the skill of a true craftsman.
Catering to Customers Needs
Although each baker admittedly preferred the traditional baguette, they all recognized the need to produce the “ordinaire” baguette to meet the majority of their customers’ needs. In addition, each bakery has adapted to offer a unique mixture of products that cater to the specific needs of customers in their area.
At Julien’s, located in the midst of a bustling Parisian business district, the owner has adapted to cater to a lunch crowd, which flowed through his business during the noontime tour. Julien offers a delightful luncheon sandwich that utilizes the bakery’s classic baguette dough. The dough is flattened and filled with various cheeses, meats or vegetables, sealed, cut, proofed and baked. This is a great example of product adaptation to meet the need of the consumer. During the tour, as quickly as a tray of product was brought out to show us, it was no sooner whisked away by the counter personnel to fill an order for a local office.
Developing and Communicating a Strong Bakery Brand Image
Laurent Duchene’s bakery, located in a residential area, projects a high-end, gourmet image. Laurent Duchene is a prime example of a skilled baker who has developed a niche product with his recognized bakery brand. The bakery focuses on pastries and chocolates along with his selection of fine breads. Duchene’s craft is showcased through exquisite window displays at the corner property. Duchene successfully incorporates his bakery logo on his packaging, store facing, and even his pastries and chocolates. As a Meilleur Ouvrier de France, translated as best craftsman in France and commonly referred to as MOF, he helps his bakery get recognition through training and writing for the baking industry.
Anis Bouabsa of Au Duc de la Chapelle is a public relations and marketing success. In 2004, at the age of 24, Bouabasa was the youngest baker to be awarded the MOF. In 2008, he won the coveted Best Baguette of Paris, and has placed in the top five over the last three years of the competition. In addition to the press he has received, his bakery windows proudly advertise his significant accomplishments to his customers – a great example of positive public relations lift gained from displaying his amazing talent.
To apply these learnings to your bakery, think about what your bakery does well. Also, consider what your customers need and how you can better serve them. Furthermore, explore how you want to be perceived by your customers. Effective marketing can help you identify and draw attention to your signature products and your bakery’s point of difference, so you can stand out in a crowded marketplace.
